Ringing Rocks

Often hiking, biking, skiing, climbing and other outdoor adventures can be fatiguing.  I remember reading about a Wilderness Society hike that was 17 miles long.  Since the time hiked ventured out on a 12 mile hike I whined constantly the last three miles, I gave the 17 miler a pass.

If you are not in great shape, consider going to Ringing Rocks.  Off of I 90 westbound after Whitehall and before Butte, take the Pipestone exit and turn right.  There are an abundance of roads in the area for four-wheeling.  Delmoe Lake has a campground for camping.  It doesn't matter if you don't have a four-wheeler and if you don't like to camp because you can drive to the Ringing Rocks in your sedan from the interstate highway.

We found it entertaining to climb the pile of rocks and tap them with a hammer. When you tap most of the rocks with a hammer they musically ring.   A lunch, friends, a hammer, and a good time, what more could you ask?

For Experienced Explorers Only

My friends and I have had a great time with the Helena Area Hiking Guide by Cedron Jones.  As I've said before, anyone using this guide will want to invest in a GPS.  Taking a friend with you is also a good idea.  And when Jones says, "For experienced hikers only"  rock climbing gear may be indicated.

When we decided to take hike 8 on page 28, the hike on the east side of York bridge, we  had some previous experience with the guide.  Our previous experience led us to believe that we probably wouldn't complete the hike exactly as described the first time through.  Our other hikes with Jones book were thick with comments something like this, "Oh, we were supposed to go all the way to the top of the other side!"   And, "Is this the steep descent on the map, or is that one over there?"

We hiked #8 York Bridge, East side, in April. There is something about hiking near the Missouri River in April:  less snow, milder temperatures, and the steady stream of "Oh yuck!" as hikers find ticks.

In spite of the ticks and Kristy wrestling with the dog for room in the back seat of my Olds Alero on the way there, we had a wonderful time in the great outdoors.  We found the remains of an old mining siphon, ditches, and the hack site for falcons.

Next, we came to the place that Jones describes as " ...a mini wilderness--- a rugged scenic even hiking guide authors might get lost in.  It has arches, cliffs, narrows..."
Not having brought rock climbing gear with us since we haven't a clue how to use it, we turned back when we reached the experienced hiker area and descended to the river/lake below.

As for the climb up from the lake: If you get your jollies from stopping every 10 minutes to dump sliding dirt out of your shoes, take this route!  These little things are what make a hike memorable, right?

Smoky Skies

Two out of five weekdays last week were days of smoke filled, dreary, gray skies.  When smoke fills this air I wonder what would be worse - smoking a pack a day or taking a hike.  Cabin fever set in, and Friday my hiking partner and I ventured out into the smoke.  We hiked a loop on the Open Space trails:  McKelvey Trail (Dump Gulch) to Hanging Draw Trail to the Dump Out Trail, up the Prospector Shafts to the Backside Trail to the West End Trail  down to the McKelvey Trail.

Would we avoid the smoke if we picked some trails with higher elevations?  Maybe, maybe not.

Pray for rain!

Bike Riding

On Labor Day we biked on the river trail in Great Falls.  I LOVED this bike ride.  It was comparatively flat, most paved in the city, and was well provided with restroom facilities and drinking fountains.  

Biking along the river was wonderful!  I had forgotten how much water the Missouri River moves. As you progress north, the pavement ends, but there are really nice trails that run by Ryan Reservoir and Cochran Reservoir.

My favorite part of the ride was a detour to Giant Springs State Parks.  It was shady and beautiful. Over a million gallons a day of pure, clear water, burbles up from the springs and flows into the Missouri.  Altogether, a great day.  

Lots to Do

The Wise River area is a place in the outdoors where there is an abundance of things to do.  In this area you can hunt for crystals at Crystal Park, hike and hike and hike and hike, visit a Ghost Town, and visit Hot Springs about 30 miles away.

I was disappointed with some aspects of the National Forest in this area.  My map showed many trails that could be accessed with a motor vehicle 50 inches or less.  This promised access did not prove to be accurate. Possibly, I purchased an outdated map last year. Bobcat Lake trail (supposedly 3 miles into the lake, but a killer hike of more than three miles) is only for the use of motorcycles now.  Four wheelers are permitted on one trail into Odell Lake.  However, the trail is horribly rocky and steep, so you will probably need all the fillings in your teeth reattached after the ride. Obviously, the purpose of this Odell Lake trail is to kill off anyone who rides four wheelers.

My husband and his friend, Dave, braved the rocky trail to fish in Odell Lake.  When they reached a meadow near the lake, there were two four wheeler tracks.  Two riders had left the trail and plowed through a beautiful meadow, tearing it up.   It is discouraging to have a few short sighted, selfish imbeciles who are devoid of respect for the forest ruin access for everyone.

There is another trail into Odell Lake where only hikers and horses are permitted.   This trail has rails to tie horses and parking for horse trailers.

The provisions for horses and horse trailer made me wonder if the reigning powers in this forest are riding enthusiasts or have investments in dude ranches. My map indicated that the Mono Creek Trailhead No. 2086 provided access for vehicles 50 inches or less near the high Torrey Lake in the Pioneers.  According to the map, a rider need only hike the last couple of miles into the lake.  Not True.  The trail is set up for horseback riders for the eight mile journey into Torrey.  Unfortunately, horses are very expensive and time consuming.  Most  people don't have the time, money,  or expertise to keep horses for trail riding. So if you don't have horses, plan on an overnight backpack trip into Torrey Lake.  Eight miles in and eight miles out.  Those who are out of shape and not staying at a dude ranch, or are not horse owners are out of luck.

Trails with destinations of three miles are less are scarce in this area.

The Ghost Town of Coolidge is fascinating.  The town must have been fairly large at one time.  I was puzzled by the signs warning against taking artifacts and destroying property. It's hard to imagine what havoc anyone could wreak on the piles of wood that were once buildings that are scattered everywhere. There has been no effort to save any of the buildings, except for one large home where a tin roof was installed. Our friends assured us that when they last visited 35 years ago all the buildings that are now wrecks were still standing.

After visiting the ghost town, our friends took us to Elkhorn Hot Springs for swimming.  I didn't see any guests, the restaurant was closed, and there was green algae on the bottom of the pool.  We opted out.  If we wanted to drive about 30 miles, we could gone swimming at Jackson Hot Springs.


If we visit this part of the Beaverhead Deerlodge National Forest again, I am going to plan ahead.  A weight loss program with an enhanced physical fitness program seems in order if I want to see the choicest places.  Although, I do have friends with horses. Maybe riding lessons are in order?

A Hike with a View

It won't be long before we are snowed out of the high country.  Now is the time to hike up high. One high hike with a great view is Trail 117 to Horsethief Park, over the top of the Elkhorns to 343 over the mountain and connect with Trail No. 301, Casey Meadows.

Directions
For this hike, leave a car at Casey Meadows and ask a friend to drop you off at Forest Service Trail 117. From Helena, take Highway 12 East toward Townsend.  Shortly after Winston, you will see a National Forest Access to Pole Creek.  Use this access.  Follow the road through private property.  There is a ranch near the trailhead.  Both Tr. 117 and 115 start at this point.

Description
This hike is a grunt. It goes steadily and fairly steeply uphill. There is plenty of water along the trail  as you climb because there are numerous springs on the mountain.  Once you get to Horsethief Park, the trail is not quite so steep while you walk through the park to the top of the mountain.  In late June or early July, look closely in the Park for Pygmy Bitterroots.  You enter trees again near the top of the mountain.  There are trail markers near the top also.

The view from the top of the mountain is spectacular.  Stop and enjoy it for an hour or so.  After you cross the top to the other side of the Elkhorns, the hike is an extremely steep down hill.  You may want to pass on this hike if you have bad knees or a fear of heights.  Numerous trails weave in and out on the steep down hill descent.  Keep your eye on Casey Meadows, on your left as you hike down the mountain.  As you descend, watch for a sign directing you to Casey Meadows and Trail No. 301.  Once you reach the meadows it is an easy three mile walk out.

Fishing and Me

Lake where we camped and fished

 

Trout my husband caught that went belly up and got off the hook

 "Well, should I get out the fishing rods?" my husband asked as we were sitting on the banks of a serene mountain lake.

     "Why ruin a perfect day?"  I asked.  

My fishing experiences often remind me of the TV sitcoms where a furious, frustrated golfer marches down to the water hazard and plunks all his clubs into the pond.  TV writers must not fish.  Otherwise the sitcoms would show some episodes of frustrated anglers, full of puncture wounds from fish hooks, breaking their rods in half as they pitch them into the creek.

 I keep telling myself that I need to go fishing more often, and then I will not be so aggravated. I wonder how many hours of fishing practice I will need before I can tie my tippet to the leader of my fly rod in less than a half hour.  Will the first fly I tie on my rod always mysteriously vanish after 15 minutes of fishing, no matter how carefully I consult the Orvis knot manual as I painstakingly tie it to my tippet?  Will I ever choose the fly the fish want to bite?  Will I ever realize I have a fish on my hook quickly enough to set the hook and actually catch the fish?  Will I ever spend more time fishing than the time I spend untangling my line from patches of Canadian Thistle? I knew it was time to call it a day with fly fishing when the dog decided to mosey by my fishing rod and got the hook of my fly lodged in his ear.

After wrestling the dog to the ground so I could remove the fish hook from his ear, I decided to switch to fishing with a lure. My second cast saw my lure fly into a willow bush.  I removed it from the bush to find the fishing line bore a remarkable resemblance to a granny square, and the lure had vanished from the swivel. After cutting off all the tangled line and tying on a new swivel,  I did manage to hook about an eight inch trout.  True to form, the fish got away before I could set the hook.

So my final question is, Will fishing ever be fun or will it always be aggravating?  If I knew the answer to that question, I would know whether to throw in the towel and stick with my camera or keep trying to fish.

Things to Include in Your Backpack

This Thursday I went hiking with my friend Gail and her granddaughter Ivy.  We decided to hike by some old mines.  While we ambled along,  I asked them what they find useful to carry in their backpacks.

We all thought the usual items such as sunscreen, mosquito repellent, maps, camera, matches, water, etc. were a must.  One of Gail's most useful items was a bandanna.  She uses bandannas in the following ways:

*Dip it in the creek to cool off
*Sling for a sprained limb
*Sweatband
*Covering her nose and mouth if she gets a sudden urge to hold up a stagecoach
*Wrapping something she needs to protect
*Covering for a wound

Ivy mentioned a pencil and paper as one of the things she likes to take. Pencil and paper can be  important on a hike, but hikers seldom remember to include these items in their pack.   I wish  I would have had a pencil and paper to write down all the funny comments Gail and Ivy made in answer to my question.  Pencil and paper are light weight and can be useful in a number of ways:

*Notes about how to get to the trail and the trail itself.
*Notes on wildlife and habitat
*Something to write on if you have to make calculations, such as location
*Leaving a note in an emergency

One of my most useful items to include in a backpack is a zip lock bag.  I have used them in the following ways:

* Keeping my camera dry in case my water bottle leaks
*Lessening wear and tear on my flower books and keeping them together and dry
*Giving the dog a drink when hiking far from water
*Keeping my matches together in the box
*Stopping my toilet paper from rubbing to pieces, and a place to keep used toilet paper (Leave no trace)

Old cabin

Part of an old dam near the mine

Old refridgerator

Gentian

Yarrow

Day Spent Above 8000 Feet

Imagine passing up sales at the big box stores for this.

Hikers' Honey Fruit Squares - Arleen R. Egan

2 eggs
3/4 cup honey
1/2 cup graham cracker crumbs
1/2 cup flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup currants or snipped dates, figs, or prunes
1 cup walnuts, pecans or almonds
 
Beat eggs until light and fluffy.  Then gradually beat in honey, pouring in very thin stream.  Add flour, cracker crumbs, and salt.  Stir in fruit and nuts.  Pour into greased and floured 8x8x2 inch baking pan.  Bake at 350 degrees for 40 to 45 minutes until top is well browned and cake is firm in the center.  Cut in squares with damp knife while still warm.  Cool on rack.  Put squares in plastic bags or wrap.
Makes - 6 squares.  Tastes best the next day.

Things Learned on a Hike with My Webelos

• Running down the trail is easier than walking down it.
• Pine is a specific enough variety of tree to count for our tree identification requirement.
• The amount of oxygen at a 10 foot rise in the trail will be significantly less than at a spot ten feet lower.  This is why you feel tired when you go uphill.
• The purpose of bringing a snack is so that you can be entertained by watching the dog eat it.
• Three miles is verrrrrry loooong

Louise Lake

Louise Lake is another hike that is accessible for a few months of the year.  It's worth the wait.

Directions:  Drive to Cardwell and take Highway 359.  Look  on your right for a road sign saying "South Fork of the Boulder."  This road runs to Mammoth and Forest Service Road 107, passing through Mammoth.  Mammoth is a small town comprised of private cabins.  Continue driving to the Trailhead No. 168, Deer Lodge National Forest.  The last part of the road gets REALLY rough and has huge boulders.

The trailhead is well marked, at least it was the last time I was there. (You never know when a drunk with a gun will shoot up signs.)  The trail is wide and well maintained.  The hike is not long, only three miles or so in.  It seems longer because it switchbacks all the way to the lake.  This is a gorgeous hike with beautiful views.  Even the rocks along the trail with their black and gray stripes are unique.

View of the  main road to the trailhead

View of Louise Lake

View of the Tobacco Root Mountains from the trail

Trail to the Lake

White Mountain Heather in the area

Pink Mountain Heath

A Hike that is High!

In July we can finally access hikes with high elevations.  Here is a hike that we enjoy:

Directions. Take the Montana City Exit and turn left.  Turn left at Johns Street on the right.  The street runs into McClellan Creek Road.  Stay on McClellan Creek Road as it runs up over the hill and into the national forest.  Keep on the road until you see Crystal Creek Road on your right.  Turn onto Crystal Creek road and follow it to the Casey Meadows Trailhead No. 343.  Start out on  343 and hike across the log foot bridge over the creek.  Look left for the Jackson Creek trail marker Trail No. 346. Take No. 346.  Ignore any trails that veer off on the right.  Sad experience led us back onto the Casey Meadows trails when we took those trails.   There are some cairns to help hikers stay on the correct trail.  Follow No. 346 down a hill until you come to a creek.

I always bring some sandals because the trail runs through the creek for a 20 yards or so.  Look for a break in the trees on the left the size of a road.  Exit the creek.  You will see a road coming from the left and heading up hill.  Go up hill.  You will see a meadow on your left with a trail.  Ignore it and keep following the road up hill.   Now the trail is up hill , becoming steeper until you reach  Montgomery Park Trail No. 301.  Follow the creek as you hike if the trail becomes faint.  Look for the sign for Montgomery Park Trail No. 301 as it merges with the trail you are on, No. 346.  Where the trails merge, turn right onto the trail, (No. 301) which leads you across a mountain.   There are dead falls galore from the 1988 fire, but there are still few pines along this part of the route. Lots of springs at intervals across the trail make up for little shade.  Follow the trail as you come to another high meadow where you can look down into Casey Meadows.  Here you have to find your route with numerous paths winding in and out.  There are a few cairns.  The route leads down to  Casey Meadows. After reaching Casey Meadows,  cross the creek and find No. 343, Casey Meadows trail and hike down to the Casey Meadows trailhead where you began. 


Tale of the trail.


Probably because of the 1988 burn, it took Gail and I several tries before we found the entire route of this trail.  Over the years, the Forest Service and hikers have made the trail more distinct.  Possibly cows in this area have made some of the offshoot trails that lead nowhere.

One thing I know, cows along this trail have improved my cardiovascular conditioning.  While hiking one July, Kristy and I stopped at the creek to change from boots to sandals for wading through Jackson Creek.  While changing our shoes, we heard the bellowing of unhappy cows.  Just as I pulled on my last sandal and huge bull stampeded into the creek followed by a number of cows.  I could see the whites of the eyes of the bull as he barged through the creek toward us.

Kristy and I jumped to our feet and scooted backwards into the trees.  Because of the burn, the new trees are so thick that there are only inches between them.  We scraped our way through, but so did the bull.  Evidently, he had decided we were the root of all his woes, and he was out for revenge!  Scared doesn't begin to describe our feelings. Just as it seemed certain we were to be tromped by 1000 lbs or more of bull, we heard a guy on a horse shout at the bull.  The brush was so thick that the rider had no idea why his bull was charging into the trees.  He didn't even know his bull was chasing two hikers.  We were too scared to look back and see if the rider was successful at herding the bull back to the trail.  We just prayed and hustled through the brush as fast as we could go.

We wound through the brush back to the creek to find another cowboy crossing it.  Kristy and I told him about our brush with death as calmly as we could, but our white faces probably relayed more information than our words did.  Both parties conferred on directions to make sure our paths wouldn't cross again.  We checked for injuries, which were numerous from running through thick brush in sandals.  One cut took weeks to heal up.  But considering what could have happened, we were lucky.  Still, I wish we didn't have to contend with bulls so often when hiking.  Couldn't they keep them back at the ranch?

Floating the Blackfoot

Yesterday was the first Saturday of the summer that was over 80 degrees and without wind.  Because the snow melt is about done, we knew the river water levels will now begin to drop. So my husband, a friend, myself, and several hundred other people all decided to float the Blackfoot this weekend.  The parking lot where we launched our raft looked like Wal Mart the day after Thanksgiving by 3:00 in the afternoon.

Since we had already launched our raft, I had the luxury of being amused when some rafters displayed their ignorance of river etiquette and consideration for others.  The launch point put me in mind of movies I've seen portraying Grand Central Station at 5:15 pm. The busyness of the ramp didn't phase my oblivious rafters.  They unloaded their deflated raft directly onto the ramp and tied up one side of a very busy launch for forty-five minutes while they inflated their raft and stowed their gear.  I'm not positive, but I think they were  making lunches and folding a batch of laundry, while one of the women updated her recipe file before launching. Meanwhile, two drift boats who were ready tried to squeeze by them.


Fortunately, we saw only a few other watercraft once we were on the water.   During our float we saw two bald eagles, cliff swallows, and a trout that Dave reeled in.  All in all, a great day.

June - The Best Month for Discovering Flowers

April showers bring May flowers, but it seems like June is the peak flower viewing season in this part of Montana.  On Wednesday, friends and I hiked in a gulch south of Helena and stumbled on Mountain Lady's Slippers, Cypripedium montanum.  We've hiked in this area for years.  Years go by with nary a sighting of a Lady's Slipper.  But for the second time in 15 years or so, the Mountain Lady's Slippers are out in force.

Never pick a Lady's Slipper.

 Lady's Slipper

 Spotted Coral Root

Penstemon

The Hiawatha

For a great bike ride, try the Hiawatha Trail.   The trail is about an hour west of Missoula off the I-15 Taft exit.  A fee is charged to use the trail which is the bed of the old Hiawatha Railroad.  The trail contains  historical markers which I found to be fascinating.  The markers tell stories from the devastating 1910 fire to the life of workers in the area in the early 1900s. Some explain railroad construction and markings.  The trail has several tunnels and trestles.  Since I am claustrophobic the first tunnel, which is over a mile long, is a once in a lifetime experience for me. Whenever I ride the trail now, I take the road past the first tunnel and start the ride on the other side.  I preferred the trestles because of the spectacular views. The top of the trail has the best views of the entire ride.

Starting at the top, the ride is downhill all the way into Idaho.  At the bottom, you can catch a shuttle to transport you and your bike back to the top. The first time we went, we spotted a moose browsing in the creek.  I loved it!